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Vinyl Floors, Uses and Limitations
OVERVIEW:
Sheet vinyl is probably the best economical floor covering for kitchens and other "wet" areas. Unlike peel and stick tiles, sheet vinyl provides a monolithic, non-permeable durable surface. It is suitable for use on, above, or below grade. The only limitation to a good vinyl flooring job is the quality of the sub-floor. A vinyl can generally be installed over any clean, uniformly smooth surface. Existing vinyl flooring is suitable as long as it is not heavily textured. Ceramic tile can be installed over if the grout joints are filled and leveled to furnish a single smooth surface. Peel-and-stick tiles are almost never suitable as they are usually heavily textured and poorly installed. The corners tend to curl with age and the tile seams begin to separate. Whenever new vinyl, or any other full spread flooring, (i.e., 100 percent glued) is installed over peel-and-stick tiles, the finished product will only be as sound as the peel-and-stick installation.
SUB-FLOOR:
The quality of the installation will depend on the condition of the sub-floor. The smoother the surface the better, as any imperfections in the sub-floor can telegraph through the new vinyl. Existing vinyl is a suitable surface provided it is a solid installation. Vinyl manufacturers do not recommend installing new vinyl over more than one layer of existing vinyl. Their reasons are more for warranty purposes than potential structural problems. This single layer rule should not be a problem for rehabbers. If the sub-floor is concrete slab with existing vinyl, it is best to install over the layer also. (It is usually uniformly smoother than the slab.) Older homes with many layers of differing materials present the biggest problems. It is almost always the least expensive and best repair to install new sub-floor plywood over the entire affected area. The removal of all the various layers may still reveal an unsuitable surface which would still require a new sub-floor be installed. In addition to simply covering over multiple irregular layers, a new sub-floor will help hide any ridges or dips caused by structural settling.
INSTALL IT:
The best material is sanded plywood with a minimum thickness of 3/8 inch. For additional strength, use one tube of construction adhesive per 4? x 8? plywood sheet. Secure the plywood with uncoated ring shanked nails or air staples. Fasteners need to be a minimum of 6 inches on center throughout the floor. Sink the nails or staples at least 3/16 inch below the surface. Belt sand the joints level (if needed), then fill all joints and nail holes with a floor patch material. The vinyl flooring itself can be a little tricky to install. For those willing to learn a new component of the rehab process, I recommend the purchase of a do-it-yourself installation kit made by Armstrong and sold at local building supply warehouses. The kit has basic tools and comprehensive layout and technique information and retails between $20 and $30, a sound investment for the price conscious rehabber. A complete flooring installation manual, having specific information which relates to all types of flooring, can be obtained through customer service at Armstrong World Industries, 1-800-233-3823.
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